Cyprus has so much more than I realised! From being the mythical birthplace of Aphrodite to its centuries of winemaking, including one of the oldest named wines in the world.
Flying into Larnaca in the height of summer, we based ourselves in Nicosia since the hotel gave us a base with free parking, breakfast, and a pool. We wanted a balance of culture and relaxation, so we hired a car that would allow us to explore the island at our own pace. We booked directly with Avis for around £230.
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Day 1: Crossing Borders in Nicosia, Cyprus
Watch our day 1 vlog on TikTok here
We arrived late the night before, so the first morning was an easy start with a late breakfast and a few hours by the pool. By midday, we set off into the city. There was a free shuttle bus to and from Solomou Square, but we decided to drive for more flexibility. Parking was straightforward, with a car park close to the Solomou Square bus station charging six euros for the day, paid in cash to the attendant.
Nicosia is the only divided capital in Europe, split between the Republic of Cyprus in the south and the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus in the north. To move between the two, you pass through a UN controlled border crossing on Ledra Street. Once across, we visited Büyük Han, a beautifully restored inn that now houses small shops and cafés. It is one of the main sights in the north and well worth seeing before heading back. We made a quick stop at the barbers, where twenty euros covered the full works; haircut, shave, clay mask, and even waxing.
Büyük Han
Later that afternoon, we had appointments at Hamam Omerye, a restored sixteenth-century bathhouse in the southern part of the city. You can use the baths without booking treatments for €60 for two people, but as we were celebrating our anniversary, we chose the 75-minute Merhaba package. This included time in the bath, a traditional scrub, and a massage (25 minutes for each). It was not the kind of gentle spa treatment you drift off during, the scrub was brisk, the massage firm, and it all took place on a warm marble platform, but it left us feeling completely refreshed.
For women, a bikini is more practical than a full swimming costume, as you will need to pull it down and cover yourself with the hammam blanket so they can work on your stomach and back. The bath, which feels more like a sauna, is heated to 42 degrees. Oil is used in the massage, and there is the chance to shower afterwards before getting changed.
Afterwards, we went to Haratsi, a traditional Cypriot café, but it’s not a coffee shop in the way you might expect. In summer it doesn’t open until around 7pm, and it sits above the city’s Green Line, surrounded by empty buildings. Alongside traditional coffee, the owner, Stavros, serves wine and beer, and generously gave us some merchandise from the coffee he proudly serves. We later learned that Haratsi also offers a Cypriot brandy sour, which we will try next time.
This was one of our favourite experiences in Nicosia because it felt like a true local spot. As we enjoyed our drinks and chatted with Stavros, friends and neighbours drifted in and joined him at the tables outside. For anyone from Bristol, it had the same creative, slightly unconventional energy as Stokes Croft, with a rebellious edge from being so close to the border. Fourteen euros covered two beers, two waters, a glass of wine, and a coffee, which is great value for an evening that felt entirely unplanned yet completely memorable.
The Green Line
Day 2: Paphos, Cyprus
Watch our day 2 vlog on TikTok here
We had hoped to visit the Adonis Baths, but being privately run you need to make a reservation the day before.
We set off early from Nicosia and drove west across the island toward Paphos. The journey takes just over two hours, and although it is mostly motorway, the scenery becomes more open and coastal the closer you get.
Our first stop was Petra tou Romiou, known as Aphrodite’s Rock. According to legend, this is where the goddess of love rose from the sea. Whether or not you care about the mythology, the spot itself is beautiful. There is free parking in the small car park next to it. There is also a shop with toilets.
From the car park, you can reach the beach via steps next to the entrance or by the shop. The beach is made up of pebbles rather than sand, and when we visited the surf was very strong, so it is better suited to a short visit than a long swim.
Petra tou Romiou, Aphrodite’s Rock.
From here, it is about a 45 minute drive to the Paphos sea caves in Peyia, dramatic rock formations shaped by centuries of wind and waves. There is free parking nearby, which you can find easily on maps.
Paphos Sea Caves
Our cultural stop for the day was the UNESCO World Heritage Site, Kato Paphos Archaeological Park. This large site includes the Tombs of the Kings, a 4th century BC necropolis carved into stone over 2,000 years ago where nobles (not royalty) were buried. You could easily spend a few hours here if you enjoy history, but it can be extremely hot, so bring plenty of water and sun cream. Entry is €2.50, and cards are accepted with free parking on site. We arrived at around 3.30pm and it was still intensely hot, with no real escape from the sun, except inside the tombs themselves.
Tombs of the Kings
We ended the day with a stroll through Paphos Old Town, where I picked up a bottle of carob syrup, a local Cypriot speciality. It has a low glycaemic index, which means it is a good option for anyone looking to keep blood sugar levels steady. It is rich and flavourful, with a natural caramel taste, and works beautifully in both sweet and savoury dishes.
For dinner, we had a reservation at Agora Tavern, a place known for its relaxed service and generous meze. At €28 per person, you choose either the meat or vegetarian menu, and the set dishes are brought out one after another. We shared a bottle of red wine and finished the evening feeling very well fed. The salad dressed with carob syrup and the halloumi were highlights.
These were all very different stops that showed just how much history and scenery this part of Cyprus packs into one day.
Day 3: Protaras and Ayia Napa
Watch our day 3 vlog on TikTok here
Cyprus had always felt a bit overlooked to me, mostly because of its reputation for the party scene in Ayia Napa. Yet Protaras and Ayia Napa ended up being two of my favourite places on the trip.
We started the day early, making the drive from Nicosia to Protaras in just under 90 minutes. Our first stop was Fig Tree Bay, one of the most well-known beaches in the area, with Blue Flag accreditation and a place among the best in Europe. Its clear turquoise water and soft sand made it the perfect spot to start the day and showed me a very different side of Cyprus from the one I had imagined.
Fig Tree Bay
Even in high season, with limited sunbed availability, Fig Tree Bay still felt worthwhile thanks to its calm stretch of sea that makes it easy to spend a few hours without needing much else. It’s a real snorkelling hotspot, so bring your own gear or pick some up from a local store like we did. If you prefer somewhere quieter, Konnos Beach is nearby and surrounded by greenery with slightly fewer crowds.
Later in the afternoon we took a short stroll along the coastal path to an area where turtles are sometimes visible, and ended up spotting four.
We also swam in the Blue Lagoon, part of the protected Cape Greco National Forest Park, where calm, crystal-clear water and rugged limestone cliffs make it one of the most beautiful spots on the island. Most people choose to visit on a boat trip, but we explored by car and reached the water by climbing down the rocks.
Blue Lagoon
In the evening, we drove toward Ayia Napa to catch the sunset at Nissi Beach. We stopped at Isola Beach Bar for an aperitivo before heading into Ayia Napa for dinner at En-Yevo Tavernaki, where we enjoyed yet another round of meze.
Day 4: Troodos Region
Watch our day 4 vlog on TikTok here
After a few coastal days, we headed inland toward the Troodos Mountains. The roads are winding but manageable, and within 90 minutes we had left the heat of the coast behind and were surrounded by pine forest and cooler air.
As part of an adventure challenge, we made a pit stop at Kakopetria. You can watch our experience on TikTok here.
Our first stop was Kykkos Monastery, one of the most important religious sites in Cyprus. It is set high in the mountains and has a striking interior full of mosaics, gold leaf, and religious icons. Modest dress is required for both men and women — no shorts or sleeveless tops — but they provide shawls and wraps at the entrance if needed. We spent about an hour there before moving on.
From the monastery we made our way to a viewpoint near Mount Olympus, the highest point on the island. The summit itself is not open to the public, but the drive takes you close enough for a few scenic stops along the way.
Commandaria wine is recognised by Guinness World Records as the oldest manufactured wine in the world, with roots reaching back to around 2000 BC. Revered as the “nectar of the gods,” it is made only in a handful of Cypriot villages using sun-dried Mavro and Xynisteri grapes, indigenous to Cyprus’s mountain vineyards, and produced with methods that pre-date the Roman era.
There are several wineries in this region, we chose to visit Tsiakkas Winery. This second-generation family winery carries the tradition forward, crafting wines that honour centuries-old methods across 18 hectares of vineyards. On its beautiful terrace, you can sample their wines (including Commandaria) for as little as 7 euros while overlooking the sweeping mountain landscape. It was a true highlight of our Cyprus trip, and of course we brought home a bottle for our globe bar cart.
Tsiakkas Winery
We had lunch in Omodos, a small village known for its lace making and stone streets. We chose Stou Kir Yianni, set in a restored mansion with a quiet courtyard and a menu focused on local dishes. Omodos is easy to explore on foot, with small shops selling lace, silver jewellery, and local wine.
Had we had more time, we would have made a stop at Linos Winery to sample Cyprus’s first blue wine.
We finished the day in Larnaca, arriving in the early evening. The Skala Quarter, also known as the Old Turkish Quarter, has a relaxed atmosphere with art studios, small cafés and a handful of shops selling ceramics and textiles.
Day 5: Lefkara and Larnaca
Watch our day 5 vlog on TikTok here
Our final day in Cyprus started with a drive to Pano Lefkara, a small village known for its lace and silverwork, recognised by UNESCO as part of Cyprus’s cultural heritage. Local legend claims that Leonardo da Vinci visited and incorporated the traditional patterns into The Last Supper. Folklore aside, what is certain is the specially crafted altar cloth now used in Milan Cathedral. A piece the Rouvis family spent months creating and personally hand-delivered. Impressed by their authenticity, we chose to purchase traditional Lefkara lace from the family-owned Rouvis workshop.
From Lefkara, we drove back toward Larnaca Salt Lake, located just behind Mackenzie Beach. Although the lake is best known for flamingos in the winter months, the landscape is still striking in summer.
Rouvis Lace & Silver Workshop, Pano Lefkara
With a few hours left before our flight, we chose to spend the afternoon at Mackenzie Beach. It is one of the easiest places to relax before heading to the airport. The beach is right beneath the flight path, and while that might not appeal to everyone, watching the planes come in over the sea was a joy for my aviation-loving boyfriend. We stored our luggage in the car and kept things simple with a swim, a light lunch, and a final walk along the shoreline before heading to the airport for our flight home.
Watch our experience at Mackenzie Beach on TikTok here
